There are so many ripple patterns available. I tried and tried to find a ripple pattern that I liked and could easily follow. For some reason I had the hardest time finding one I could follow, so I kind of created my own based on what I liked from several other patterns. I’m sure somewhere out there is a similar take on a ripple.
This pattern is worked in multiples of 18. That is different than most of the ripples I found. Many of them are worked in multiples of 17. Working multiples of 18 made the increases and decreases consistent.
If you know how to foundation single crochet then that’s all you need. If you don’t do foundation single crochet and prefer to chain first, then it’s multiples of 18+1. This will allow you to make the blanket any size.
Some other notes about this pattern:
I like to chain 2 before a row of double crochet. If I chain 3 it looks loopy on the edge. When I made this blanket, I did a standing double crochet. If you know how to do that it works up beautifully. This pattern will assume that you don’t do a standing double crochet. If you do decide to use a standing dc for the beginning of each dc row, then don’t chain 2.
The first and last stitch of each row are completed through both loops. I just felt like it made the blanket more structurally sound.
The border I used is a very simple one but I love the way it finished the blanket off. It really brought the whole thing together.
I crochet pretty tightly. You may need to go down a hook size or two for the blanket to look right. Gauge isn’t super important with a blanket but will help the blanket turn out the same size.
Size: Approximately 34 x 36 inches
Yarn: Bernat Softee Baby; 2 balls White, 2 balls Pale Blue, 2 balls Baby Demin Marl
Gauge: 16 sts x 8 rows = 4”
Crochet Abbreviations US:
st – stich
sl st – slip stitch
ch – chain
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet
dc2tog – double crochet 2 together (special stitch)
blo – back loop only
yo – yarn over
dc2tog – yo, insert hook, yo, pull thru loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops, yo, insert hook, yo, pull thru loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops, yo, pull thru remaining 3 loops
Row 1: Starting with white; Foundation sc 144. If you do not know how to do a foundation sc, ch 145 and then sc 2nd ch from hook across, turn. (144 st)
Row 2: ch 2 – counts as first dc in first st, add an additional dc for first st, 2 dc in next 2 st, *dc2tog in next 12 st (total of 6 dc2tog), 2 dc in next 6 st *, repeat from * to * until the last 3 st are left, 2 dc in last 3 st, turn. (144 st)
Please note: this row is not worked blo
Row 3: ch 1 – does not count as first st, hdc in first st, hdc blo in remaining st until you get to the last one, hdc through both loops in last st changing color, turn. (144 st).
Make sure your last stich is in the chain 2 from the previous row.
Row 4: chain 2 – counts as first dc in first st, dc in first st through both loops, * 2 dc blo next 2 st, *dc2tog blo in next 12 st (total of 6 dc2tog), 2 dc blo in next 6 st *, repeat * to * until last 15 st, dc2tog blo in next 12 st (total of 6 dc2tog), 2 dc blo in next 2 st, 2 dc in last st through both loops, turn. (144 st)
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until desired length then finish off. Do not turn.
For my pattern I changed colors at row 3 and then every 6 rows for the blue colors and every 2 for white. I liked changing colors after the hdc rows, but whatever pattern you like will look beautiful.
Use color of your choice. I went with Pale Blue.
Row 1: Join border color in one of the corners, hdc around (on the sides I did 2 hdcs in the dc rows and 1 in the hdc rows (play with it as it might be different depending on your gauge), in each corner stitch hdc, ch 2, hdc, sl st to starting hdc. Do not turn
Row 2: in each stitch around, sl st and ch 1, at the end sl st to beginning sl st and finish off